Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

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Brad Connell
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Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Mar 03, 2014 2:01 pm

Tom VW Type 1 Floor Pan is getting the Turn Key Manx Chassis over haul. It will be getting shortened to suit his Meyers Manx Signature Series and having some Customer Supplied Wolfsburg West Floor Pan halves fitted. The IRS Rear end will also be rebuilt and made ready for many years of faithful service under his Manx Build.

Now I must say the Wolfsburg West floor halves certainly are not cheap BUT they are significantly thicker than any other floor pan half I have seen, even thicker than factory.

Like all TKM Manx Pans we begin by stripping it bare and giving it a once over.

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Brad Connell
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:25 pm

With the floor pan striped bare we inspect it to make sure there is no major issues before bolting it into the shortening Jig. When we are doing a SWB Pan we cut it and weld the tunnel up before we get it sand blasted. We also cut the tunnel hole and any other cutting that needs to be done. By doing this it removes as much metal as possible and it also means that when we come to blast we have better access.

Firstly we bolt it into the jig to ensure it is kept straight and true throughout the process.

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Rear torsion housing is bolted in.

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The Jig is made to slide in and out and stay true. It is welded onto an old jig table with a 1" steel plate top. It is fair to say nothing moves when we cut and shunt it.

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Front is bolted in as well.

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Once we have it bolted in we take measurements and record them. This ensures that we maintain the same relationship between points after we shorten it as had to start with. Most pans are different and this is probably why most VW Bug bodies have ovaled holes from factory to accommodate variations.

With that done we can chalk out the cut lines. We used a stepped approach and will be going 14 1/2" shorter being that it is a Signature Series Classic Manx.

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Now we do a three part cut. Part one is what I call a square box cut. This is where we knock the top off so we can see what is in there and avoid any issues.

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In this case we find a failed shift bracket, put that on the list to fix. It amazes me someone would change it out and not take the old one out of the tunnel. This one has been removed due to the lower bush ring failing.

Better check the cut to make sure we are good to go with the next one.

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All looks good, time to move on.

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Before we do ... I remove all the old heater controls and tubes, I hate them and they have no further use.

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The next cut is the lower section. To do this we use a reciprocating saw as we need to cut it while it is still bolted into the jig.

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Brad Connell
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:27 pm

Done !!

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Looking nicer already with all that excess metal gone !!

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Brad Connell
Manx Admin
Posts: 364
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:35 pm

Now we have cut it it is time to begin putting it back togeather. The first thing we must do is realign the hand brake tubes.

To do this we use a cool bending die so the tubes are not flattened.

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Once bent we test them with a hand brake cable. We always test everything as we go to avoid any issues down the track.

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Cool it fits ..

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With that done we simply slide the halves together and tack them in place. Once tacked heavily .. we remove it from the jig and sand blast it. This removes all the seam sealer and horrible crap from the tunnel so we can weld it back together and fit some pan halves.

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All done ...

Brad Connell
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Sun Mar 16, 2014 5:44 pm

We are also doing the rear arms so we get them blasted as well.

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When doing arms that will be rebuilt we leave the bearings and seals in place during blasting. This keeps the sand out of the inside and protects the bearing surfaces.

From here it is into the weld bay so we can replace some tacks with stiches and get the rest of the welding done.

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With the join done we can add one of our Tunnel Gusset plates, these plates are deigned to ensure there are never any issues with the join and clean the area up.

A little bit of cutting

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A few tone of down force.

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Hit it with the welder.

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Then weld up the rear forks where the heater cables were

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We also add a few stiches to the inner forks for added strength. Not we have a rear brace on, do not weld your forks without one as they will pull and move.

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Now we move to the rest starting with the tunnel access hole. Unlike a beetle you can't open the door and get to the pedals etc so we put an access hole in all our pans.

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With that done we can address the next issue, this was a semi auto pan so it has no clutch tube.

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Brad Connell
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Sun Mar 16, 2014 6:10 pm

There are many different ways to put a clutch tube in.

Firstly I remove the rear tinware.
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With that off you can see the accelerator tube and below it you can actually see the hole where it would go if this was not a factory auto pan. So ideally we want to move it there.

So we cut a slit

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Grab some pliers and twist it open

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Slide it down and twist it back

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Then weld it up ..

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Now we get the clutch tube we are putting in and roll flare the pedal end. I do this with a screw driver and roll it around inside.

http://meyersmanx.info/ManxInfoGallery/var/resizes/Buggy-Builders/TurnKeyManx/Products/Floor-Pan-Shortening/IMG_0373.JPG

With a nice flare I run a de-burr tool around inside and out to get a nice smooth finish. This is important so you get a good cable feed and there is no chance of damage to the clutch cable when it is in use.

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Then slide it into the tunnel from the rear and sit it on the factory front bracket

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Check clearance and any bends and then simply slide it back so you have no more than 5mm over hang. If you have any more the clutch cable end will catch on it and cause issues.

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With it in place weld it top and bottom

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The factory tube is held in place at 4 locations. One front and rear and two inside the tunnel. On a SWB Buggy I only add one inside the tunnel just below the gear shift hole.

I drill a hole and weld on a bracket

To get it in location I lever it over from the gear shift hole .

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I fixed the shift bracket while I was there.

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With that all done I test fit a cable and ensure it moves freely without any resistance.

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Once happy we can drill a hole in the rear cover tin, put it back on and weld up the tubes.

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Sorted now it is time for some pan halves .....

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Hmm they don't seem to fit, wonder if they are the correct year.

Guess I better cut them up ..

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Looks like they fit well, this is going to be fun ....

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hmm what a mess..

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Brad Connell
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Posts: 364
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:04 pm

Well after more time that I expected the first pan half is in place.

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The shape of the Wolfsburg West floor pan halves doesn't lend itself to the usual pattern so took some tweaking.

Flip and repeat.

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From there is was back onto the spit to get another blast and some primer so Tom could decide what coating he was going to apply at a later date.

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After priming it got to hang out with some of its friends :roll:

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Brad Connell
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Posts: 364
Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 9:54 pm
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Re: Tom - Meyers Manx Signature Series Floor Pan

Postby Brad Connell » Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:09 pm

Once it had finished hanging out it was dropped onto the trolley and moved back to the shop so we could put all the part on it and get it ready for pickup.

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Tom was also getting one of the new Meyers Manx Classic Dash Frame / Steering supports so that was added on his pile.

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It was while checking the sheet I realized that we had left the shift tube out of the done list. As luck would have it time was not on my side so I will have to ship it to Tom, luckily for him we have finished our design on the new coupling and will be doing a production run of shortened shift tubes this week. So pictures and info to follow but needless to say Tom will be getting a package in the next week with shift rod and a bonus bush and muffler cone to cover the screw up on my part.

Of course we couldn't let it go without a Turn Key Manx Tunnel cover hehe

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Job done ... good luck with the Build Tom it was great to meet you guys and I look forward to checking out your buggies at the next Manx Club Event.

Buggy On !!!!


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