Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

From Mild to world check out the work we have been doing on others Meyers Manx Buggies.
Brad Connell
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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:45 pm

Once drilled you can drop the bolts down.

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At this time you can simply bolt it up with the supplied hardware.

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The issue is that if you do this and you ever have to remove the cross member you will have to pull your trailing arms to get at the bolts.

To avoid this you can weld the bolt in place, not my preferred solution as if you damage it etc then it will be a PITA to get out.

The way we do it is with what my offside calls Magic Washers. These are a square sides washer with one side folded at 90 degrees. When you drop them in they hold the bolt from turning and hit the side of the pivot box so they themselves don't turn, cool huh :D

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Then we bolt it up again ..

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With that done we can bolt our trailing arms back in place. To do this I use a small piece of 17mm Allen key I have cut down to fit inside the pivot bolt and leave enough out to get a spanner on. Using a ratchet spanner you can then get at it easy and do it up quickly.

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Once we have done them up tight and peened the outside into the groves I add two white marks using a paint pen. The ensure that they are easy to inspect and lets you know if there is any movement.

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Once we had the rear mount on it was all bolted back together. This provided a very good example of you could be a great mechanic but without a clue you could make the most simple mistakes. I had the apprentice bolt the arms back in once we were done with mock up. Then as part of our quality control it needs to be checked by a second person. When I checked it this is what I found.

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You can see both washers have been placed on the inside of the trailing arm. This is WRONG and the end result is that the pivot bush gets pushed out and is no good. When I spoke to him about it he said that he put it back together the same way as it came apart. Sure enough checking the pictures showed it was in wrong to start with. Over the years there has been a lot of misinformation about pivot bolt washers. The correct answer is that you must ALWAYS have at least ONE washer on the outside to hold the bush in place. You can move the second one inside to adjust the arms slightly or even add a third washer to the mix BUT you must always have at least ONE on the outside for the head of the pivot bolt to push against.

Brad Connell
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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:46 pm

With the front mount in place it was time to turn our attention to the rear cross member and engine mount. With a Manxter 2+2 Kit you get a rear support frame which joins the roll cage to the rear frame horns. Now due to the height of the Subaru Transmission this sub frame hits the bell housing.

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To fix this the first think we need to do is cut off the cross bar.

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With that removes we can begin to fit it up and see what else needs to be cut.

First thing we need to do is fit the SubaruGears Rear Cross Member and engine mount. As mentioned earlier as we had cut, modified and welded on the frame horns they have sucked it. This is very common even though we fit a brace when we do the work. It is a simple fit to push them apart using a standard automotive bottle or scissor jack. I use a Toyota Unit as it is very compact and easy to use.

It is inserted between he forks and wound out.

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Once we have the holes lines up we put the bolts in. It is VERY IMPORTANT that we put these bolts in by hand until the shoulder engages, they are very easy to cross thread.

Walla all done and in place

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I must say after doing several of these the new mounts from SubaruGears.com is AWESOME ... I did fitup prior to them being available and it is so much easier now then it was then, money well spent.

With the cross member in place we can bolt up the legs of the rear subframe and see what we can get going.

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The rear leg will sit along the rear of the mount and after checking clearance for CV's and axles it is a green light modification.

So we mark the side lines and pop a hole in there to bolt the boss to ( once we shorten the leg)

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After doing this modification we spoke to Todd at SubaruGears and he is going to change his next batch of mounts to have this extra hole for us Manxter Owners. Now you have to love that for service :shock:

Brad Connell
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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:59 pm

With the holes added we can fit the mount up. We can not modify the legs yet as we need to have the transmission and engine in place to ensure we clear everything back there.

So we bolt the cross member in place and sit the mounts on.

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You might notice I have put the mounts and plates onto the mount. I do this as the plates bolt to the engine case with bolts not studs meaning there is less issue with getting the engine high enough to clear the studs that hang out the bottom of the mounts.

Meanwhile the engine has been getting its new flywheel and clutch fitted.

Better keep this to help with crank signal :D

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Nice new exceed flywheel

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tensioned up and then fit the spigot bearing.
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Then on with the stage 2 clutch ...

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With the clutch on we need to get the rest back to Subaru Spec starting with some factory lower engine studs.

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With that all sorted the Power Pak is reacdy to go back into its small small hole .. for hopefully what will be the last time

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CRUNCH !!!!!

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Hmmmm it seems we have an issue .... the rear cover template and cover were made by Bruce to suit the Kick-Out and it seems that the Manxter Rear Deck is a little lower than the Kick-Out. Damn it ..... need to give this some more thought as it will mean we have to clearance a few things and that the H6 has some dimensional difference to the EJ series ...

Brad Connell
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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:03 pm

Not wanting to sit around for long we began work on cleaning, scraping and brushing the inside floor pans. Due to the amount of rust that was present Scott decided to get us to apply some Armadillo lining to it while we had it apart. To do this we have to do lots of taping.

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Due to the way it was wired up we had no choice but to either cut the loom out or tape it all up and live with the PITA, we chose to tape it up :roll:

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Once taped we wrap it in a tent thing I have made up to keep the overspray out of the shop. Once the tent is on we put on the clean air respirator and climb on it to pull the trigger. Applying the coating is sort of like using a fire hose.

Once done we can begin to unwrap and remove the wire trace tape.

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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Mar 31, 2014 5:18 am

Ok so back to the motor, the correct engine mounts have been located at Subaru and a pair has been ordered. Due to supply issues they are going to take a few days. The fiberglass has been reassessed and once the engine mounts arrive we can work out just how much more we are going to have to cut.

One of the other jobs Scott wanted done was the installation of what many call Flat Caped Torsion bars. This will allow him to fit larger diameter rear tyres and get more of the look he is after. After pulling the rear end apart it currently has 27mm torsion bars and a rear sway bar. As we are going to shorter ones we have found that the you generally want to go a bit lighter so we went with 26mm units.

Since we are pulling it apart anyway we have decided to change over to adjustable spring plates. Like most things we do there is some tweaking involved.

Most adjustable spring plates have an issue with the outer or loaded plate rolling off the inner carry plate. This happens for a number of reasons but mainly bad design. As we aren't in a position to design our own we start with an aftermarket set and modify them to have retainers to stop the load plate bending over the carry plate.

The adjustable spring plates consist of two plates. The shorter or loaded plate and the longer carry plate. The carry plate bolts to the rear trailing arm and the loaded plate holds the spline. What the adjuster does is allows the torsion bar position to be varied relative to the carry plate. When they arrive they have a simple threaded block welded onto the carry plate and then a stop block on the loaded plate. As you do the bolt up the loaded plate gets more preload relative to the carry plate.

What happens is as the torsion bar loads up the loaded ( outside plate) has a tendency to rotate off the threaded block and thus the rear ends collapses to the upper bump stop.

There is a number of ways to address this and we do so by adding a retainer tab.

First we clean the paint off where we will be welding and make up a retainer tab. This tab is 1/4 steel and bent at 45 degrees to help with strength.

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Once in place it will sit here and allow the loaded spring plate to tuck behind but never fall over ( off)

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Then we weld it in place and check clearance. Often we need to grind a slight angle on the hit block due to the swing angles.

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Add some new paint and all fitted and ready to adjust.

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Brad Connell
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Posts: 364
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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:22 am

With the spring plates fitted it was time to fix the Pivot Washer issue. As they had been running for a while with the washers incorrect it was fair to say that the bushes would need replaceing. When you run the washers on the inside you also usually bend the outer side of the pivot box as it is designed to support the bolt head not provide any real push. With the washer on the inside the busing and arm push out and there is no bolt to support it.

Anyway they were removed and the bushes fired out.

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Once they are removed new ones were fitted and the arms put back into the buggy. With arms in the reassembly started to get it back onto wheels.

Looking at the rear disc rotors it was pretty obvious that there was some issues with engagement and caliper pressure.

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The outside of the rotor only had partial wear and it was not consistent on either both sides or even on its own face.

When you look at the rear the engagement et area is much larger

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With a single piston floating caliper this usually indicated incorrect setup. Since just looking at it indicated the original installer had made some tragic mistakes it was no real surprise. First up we would need to fix the break lines as a floating caliper should not have a hard line running to it. The Hand brake cables were badly run and had been damaged, the caliper wasn't floating due to a lack of grease and they had been installed with the stamped steel bracket WHICH ARE CRAP and should not be used. The stamped steel brackets flex and fail and talking to a few guys lately there is word that they will be banned in CA in the not to distant future.

Also looking at the pads there was some alignment issues which needs to be sorted.

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Pads are an easy fix, they still have plenty of life in them so we just face them and chamfer the edges to reduce squealing and future issues. I like to chamfer at least a few millimeters.

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Brad Connell
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Re: Scott - Manxter 2+2 Subaru Powered.

Postby Brad Connell » Mon Apr 07, 2014 8:33 am

With the pads sorted it was onto the mounts. We had a set of cast units on the shelf so they were fitted up and the caliper cages bolted on. Now when fitting Empi or any disc brake kits it is very important to presume they are not going to fit and need to be correctly aligned. Doing this can take a while but it only needs to be done once.

With the bracket bolted on you canb see it has alignment issues and fowls on the disc rotor.

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To fix this we need to move it over and get it sitting center of the disc.

To move it we need to take some material off the inside where it bolts to the caliper mounting bracket. Now you could remove it from the mounting bracket as well but I find it easier to leave the bracket mounted up tight and just match the caliper cage.

With the caliper cage off I start facing it ensureing that I keep it square of it will sit crooked. To do this I use a 20" disc sander but you could use a grinder and file if you were keen or a mill if you had one.

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Grind it down to you have a flat surface

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Once you think you have enough meat off it we can refit and test it again. Before test fitting it is important to run a tap through the casting to remove the outside burr or else you run the risk of cross threading and having to deal with that.

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Once we fit it up we check it again, if it looks about right we bolt it up tight and test fit the caliper. If it doesn't sit correct pull it off and do it again.

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We keep going until it is correct and the caliper sits square and has clearance on the rotor. Make sure if you take a fair bit off you shim the bolts with a washer so they don't poke through and hit anything.


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